All on red at W&W 25 with the Black Bay 58’s bold prototype revival

At Watches and Wonders 2025, Tudor's unveiling of three new models has watch enthusiasts buzzing, particularly with the introduction of the new Black Bay 58…

As one of the brand’s most beloved lines, the Black Bay 58 has earned its status as a collector’s favourite. But for this new iteration, Tudor reaches deeper into its history and draws inspiration from an intriguing prototype—a red Tudor Submariner reference 79190 that never made it to production.

This year’s Black Bay 58 pays homage to that elusive prototype, bringing the red dial and bezel to life with an impressive array of new features and the industry-leading Master Chronometer certification. Let’s explore what’s new, what’s exciting, and why this Black Bay 58 deserves a closer look.

The Legacy of the Red Tudor Submariner 79190

The connection between the Black Bay and the legendary Tudor Submariner reference 79190 is significant. In the 1990s, Tudor created a prototype of the 79190 that featured a striking red dial and matching red bezel. Although the model never saw mass production, it has been a point of intrigue for collectors and enthusiasts, leaving many to wonder about what could have been.

It was this 90’s prototype that inspired the red bezel of the original Black Bay back in 2012. Fast forward to 2025, and Tudor has resurrected this design in the form of a Black Bay 58 with a beautifully executed burgundy dial and bezel. The new Black Bay 58 offers a modern take on that neo-vintage classic and fans of that elusive red proto can now enjoy a little piece of the story on their wrist.

The original Black Bay with burgundy bezel for 2012

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Tudor Watch

A blue Tudor Sub with the prototype Red Sub

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P&L Watch Collection

What’s New in the Black Bay 58?

The new Black Bay 58 features a slimmer, more refined case designed around the new MT5400-U movement, with a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of just 11.72mm (down from 11.90mm). The crown has been redesigned too and takes inspiration from the prototype Tudor Submariner from the 90s, with a rounded shape and wider toothing for improved grip. Eagle eyes will also spot that the visible crown tube is all but gone now too.

The bezel has also been updated, incorporating a new notching style first introduced on the Black Bay 58 GMT in 2024, offering better functionality and aesthetics. Additionally, the hands have been reworked, with the minute hand now featuring a subtle ‘pinch’ at the pinion and the second hand adopting the iconic “lollipop” design.

For the first time, the Black Bay 58 gets the Master Chronometer certification. Tested by the Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), this new Black Bay 58 surpasses even the Swiss Chronometer standards, ensuring accuracy within a range of 0/+5 seconds per day.

Another key update is the introduction of the 5-link bracelet, with T-fit clasp system, which collectors have been wanting for a while now.

Reaching New Depths

So you want to go deeper? For commercial divers and to those for whom the extreme end of Tudor’s technical capabilities appeals, the Pelagos Ultra is going to be the go-to. This new offering builds on the foundation of the Pelagos, one of the brand’s most robust dive watches, but goes a step further, offering an astounding 1,000-meter water resistance. Powered by the Manufacture Calibre MT5612-U, it’s certified as a Master Chronometer, so you can rely on this even at extreme depths. The 43mm titanium case is both lightweight and durable, designed for the extreme pressures of deep-sea exploration.

The Pelagos Ultra features bold luminescence with dual colours, blue and green, for greater visibility and differentiation at depth. Also, Its newly redesigned titanium bracelet comes with a proprietary rapid adjustment system, allowing divers to adjust the strap even in challenging conditions thanks to an aqua blue indicator that matches the PELAGOS text on the dial.

A Bigger, Bolder Black Bay

Tudor’s new Black Bay 68 is a clearly the answer to growing demand for larger case sizes in the Black Bay collection. Following years of size reduction, with the Black Bays 58 and 54, its now the big boys’ turn.

At 43mm, this new model joins the esteemed Black Bay Bronze as the largest members of the family. The name is inspired by the same Snowflake hand design that made the 1969 Tudor Submariner a collector’s favourite, with the Black Bay 68 monicker referencing the year that the hands were devised and developed.

The BB68 makes a bold statement with its satin-brushed silver or TUDOR Blue dial. It features a stainless steel bracelet with smooth side links, so no rivets, and a “T-fit” clasp for easy adjustment. Like the Black Bay 58, it’s engineered to meet the most demanding requirements, as underlined by the METAS certification. The Black Bay 68, like its predecessors, is ready to take on whatever adventure you have in mind, from water sports to casual daily wear.

Did collectors get what they wanted? Well, its fair to say that you can’t please one hundred percent of the people one hundred percent of the time. Any criticisms or concerns that the Black Bays 58 and 54 are a little small for some wrists and modern tastes has been met squarely with the new Black Bay 68. And for vintage fans and Tudor history rabbit-hole dwellers, the new burgundy BB58 is a home run. The METAS Pelagos that has increased its case height by a miniscule 0.2mm and increased its depth rating by double – that’s pretty good going, I think that there really is a Tudor for everyone in this year’s headline releases. And that’s what Tudor seems to do so well every year and why we love ’em!